North tower direct snowpatch spire routes

The proposed 65mile steel pipeline would interconnect with existing rockies express pipeline in scott county, illinois. Mar 19, 2011 good view of portion of north tower remaining after initial collapse, sometimes referred to as the spire. We couldnt resist its allure, and so at the last second 11 a. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the kain hut. Aug 12, 2011 much harder and with a longer approach was fingerberry jam on fingerberry tower 5 pitches, located next to the howser towers and north summit direct on the west face of the snowpath spire. Snowpatch spire sits in the middle of the bugaboo group, so has a great view of the bugaboo glacier peaks, pigeon spire, the howser towers, bugaboo spire, crescent spires, and applebee dome camp. Bugaboos 2016 beckeychouinard, ne ridge bugaboo spire. Bugaboo mountains august 2018 a trip to the bugaboo mountains of eastern bc with kat vollinger, climbing the west ridge of pigeon spire, the kain route on bugaboo spire, super direct on snowpatch spire and mctech arete on crescent spire. Another must on snowpatch spire is sunshine crack iv 5. After a rest day, we left camp hoping to attempt a new route on the north face of snowpatch spire. Sep 08, 2011 south howser tower, beckeychouinard 5. Developed by greenland group and designed by hok, construction on the tallest building of 67 stories commenced in 2016, and at that time was targeted for completion in 2020.

After the lightning passed we retrieved our metal climbing gear from under a blanket of hale at the base of the route and retreated down the ridge. Morning sun on snowpatch spire and the bugaboo snowpatch col. Snowpatch spire, south howser tower, north howser tower. The rain never came that day, so we sunbathed on rock slabs and submerged ourselves in freshly melted snow as it tumbled over miniwaterfalls off a rock bench. We descended down the krausmccarthy rappel route on the west face of snowpatch spire. Exploring new ground on the pitch 6 variation of the tower arete. Ridge of pigeon spire is one of the most enjoyable technical british columbia climbing scrambles to be found anywhere and the smaller crescent spires offer enjoyable climbing at. Top canadian climbs and climbers of 2016 gripped magazine. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. Looking up at the north face of burgundy spire from the top of paisano pinnacle. Snowpatch spire has worldclass hard alpine free routes. We could try one of the harder free lines on the easily accessible snowpatch spires east face.

Now, it is a popular moderate route to the top of this amazing peak. The only class 4 scramble route is on the north tower. Formerly best known as an aidclimbing venue, it is now covered in free routes mostly difficult ones, usually with at least a couple of 5. After colin arrived at the belay at the end of the fourth pitch he. One thing that all these climbs had in common was the fact that there always happened something, from minor shitty things to real epics. Overview snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. Lisa on our third pitch with snowpatch spire in the background. From there, the pipeline will travel through greene and jersey counties in illinois and st. Head north to bugaboo provincial park, a fortress of worldclass granite in a quiet corner of british columbia. For routes on the north face follow the trail from the campground or hut toward the col and north. We were both really psyched but also tentative to try the beckychouinard route on south howser tower iv, 5.

More than 2,000 feet of scrambling and climbing led to a summit with sweeping views of nearby snowpatch spire, the canadian rockies, coastal ranges, and surrounding glaciers and ice fields. The climb ascends the far north side of the west face of snowpatch spire. Pavel about to gain the 600 feet chimney system that accesses the upper ridge. West face of the south tower of howser spire fred beckey o n e o f the great mysteries in the bugaboos has been the west faces of the howser spires, which are not only the most magnificent walls in the range but are on the highest and most alpine peaks. Most of snowpatch s viable free routes are on its western face. Aug 30, 2011 the spire is a giant granite monolith which sticks out of an icefield like a sharkfin from the flat of an ocean bay. The three separate peaks, collectively known as the howser spire massif, are the north tower, the central tower and the south tower.

Spire london, previously known as hertsmere house, is a construction project located in west india quay, near canary wharf. Bugaboo mountains august 2018 jaz morris photography. The famous beckeychouinard route on south howser tower v, 5. The route starts on the left of a small pinnacle, and for the first three pitches keeps left of the crest of the ridge proper 5. Its right in front of you when you reach the hut, the distinctive snowfield that gives the mountain its name front and center. A fair bit of awkward climbing on rounded rock but the last three pitches are good. In the present there are over ten routes there, many of them demanding very good climbing skills. From the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. Howser spire or howser spire massif, is a group of three distinct granite peaks, and the highest mountain of the canadian bugaboo spires. Climbed the ridge directly instead of down to the left. The start of the technical climbing on the route was fairly easy mid fifth class. Custom pdf personalised uptodate pdf for north howser tower. Exchanging boots for approach shoes at the pigeonhowser col. Snowpatch spire 10,050 feet this dominant buttress holds over 50 routes from 5.

Read the detailed account of the sends on walshs alpinestyle. Air north, yukons airline offers yearround scheduled flights between the yukon and british columbia, alberta, northwest territories, and ontario. Oct, 20 the next day had a high percentage of early thundershowers, so we headed around the backside of snowpatch spire to stash our gear for the 19pitch snowpatch route the following morning. Either of the two will be a major undertaking and standing on top of bugaboo spire should be every climber. Since the pigeonsnowpatch col icefall area could only be descended with rappel stations couldnt be traveled up, accessing the west side of the snowpatch spire would take much longer than traveling through the bugaboosnowpatch col. Popular guided routes in the bugaboos professional. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. I was intrigued by the beckey chouinard route on south howser tower a fifty classic as well as snowpatch spire the spire which towers above applebee camp. A decision was made to stomp around the crescent glacier to gain perspective on our next approachs to pigeon and bugaboo spire via snowpatch col. Spicy red watchtower north howser tower, bugaboos, bc.

This part is tricky and one can get in trouble if they dont do it right. Bugaboo adventures 2020 black sheep adventure sports. However, as we wandered across the crescent glacier, we noticed the east face basking in sunlight. Jon walsh and colin moorhead sent two new routes this past weekend. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. Eastpost spire is the most popular scramble objective and offers a. So far only two routes have been established there. A short ramble up a steep slope with loose scree and boulders saw us on the son of snowpatch snowpatch spire col just as the first glimpse of light came across the horizon. Climbers and hikers often use the 40person conrad kain hut. Climbing in north america states that the successful team quickly concluded that.

The direct north summit route, established in the early 80s is probably the first really sustained free climb established in the park, repeat ascents report it to be fairly underrated at the original 5. We discovered why the deck of playing cards we found in the hut had only 51 cards. The west face is a m sheer drop into east creek which flows out into duncan lake. This photo is taken looking up at sam leading pitch 3. The mountain is located at the southwest corner of the vowell glacier, within the bugaboo mountain range in the purcell mountains, a subrange of british columbias columbia mountains, the highest of the three spires is the north tower at 3,412 m 11,194 ft. Aac publications snowpatch spire, east face, new routes.

July 31, 20 although poor weather in the bugaboos had changed my plans with alec for us to stop by gimli peak on our way in, the storms had passed and we had a brief, but solid, weather window. The north tower at 3398 metres 11,150 ft is the highest, the central tower is. After climbing over the col walk south to your desired route. Snowpatch was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. Climb out right not directly up the gorgeous dihedral and follow flakes and. The north tower at 3398 metres 11,150 ft is the highest, the central tower is the lowest, and the south tower is only slightly lower than the north measuring in at 3292 metres 10,800 ft.

May 27, 2016 this would make our days longer, but it was a much safer alternative to the bugaboosnowpatch col. After a couple misstarts, we did some loston snowpatch route, to the left of north tower direct and right of flamingo fling. Rock climb buckingham route easy version, the bugaboos. This is a famous and popular route, one of the 50 classic climbs of north america.

On the north howser tower the best choice is the west face, climbed for the first time in 1971. This version of the buckingham route doesnt go all the way to the summit of snowpatch, but has climbing only up to 5. Looking over brenta spire, crescent spire, and the cats ears to cobalt lake. Designed for the average joe climber, the live your dream grant is exactly what it sounds like. From all sides, the spires present a variety of highquality multipitch climbs, from half. Or we could try to link a few moderates and get a tour of the area. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing. After snowpatch spire was ticked, only one major peak remained unclimbed, south howser tower. Louis counties in missouri before connecting with existing laclede gas facilities. Over the last decade or so, the 500m east face of snowpatch spire has been transformed into one of the finest alpine free climbing walls in north america. Of the pitches, 12 are new and one is shared with the route deus ex machina, an a3 pitch that walsh and berg free climbed at 5. The east face of snowpatch spire showing the route welcome to the machine pitches, 5.

A threespan cablestayed structure, construction began in may 2015, overseen by farrans construction and victor buyck steel construction. A reportedly popular climb on the west ridge of snowpatch spire. Glacier travel, route finding in the alpine, climbing with a heavy pack, long climbingdescent day. Or we could go all in on all along the watchtower, a remote and long climb on north howser tower. We climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. The rest of the route follows the crest, up fun cracks, and then chimneys 5. Id been to the nearby rockypoint ridge and got a headon panorama view of these spires, but never been to the core area. Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatch bugaboo col to a large, loose ledge. Jon walsh and colin moorhead sent minotaur direct 5. Stanhope and segal projecting the tom egan memorial route on snowpatch spire. Buckingham route, the enjoyable way, snowpatch spire. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch.

Liberty bell, concord tower, lexington tower, minuteman tower, north early winters spire, and south early winters spire. Bugaboo snowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain routei always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire. The col looked scary, we were very glad we decided to do lions way and not pigeon which had been our earlier plan. For the past three years we have proudly partnered with the american alpine club to help support the live your dream grant. Approaching the beckychouinard route on south howser tower. It is a ninepitch crack system on the north buttress of the mountain. Local live your dream grant winners touchstone climbing. Bugaboo spire, snowpatch spire, pigeon spire, and the sphinx center after enjoying about 30 minutes on the summit, it was time to begin the long series of rappels to get down. May 22, 2015 this col gives access to some of the bugaboo spire climbs including the very popular kain route and pigeon spire which is supposed to be one of the best 5. Alpine starts are key in the bugaboos where the routes are long and afternoon storms are common. From paisano pinnacle, it is a hop, skip, and a jump to the start of pitch 3 of the north face of burgundy spire. Stanhope, segal free bugaboos tom egan memorial route at 5.

Bugaboo alpine rock mountaineering alpine rock in nelson. The tom egan memorial route, established as a pitch aid line grade v 5. The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. There are many classic climbs up the spire, including sunshine crack 5. Snowpatch spire is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, some 30 minutes long hike from the hut across the crescent glacier. Washington pass climbing liberty bell, concord, lexington. Chris approaching the alpine cragging around crescent spire and crescent towers, only thirty. Since the conquest of most of the great faces and routes on the forepeaks in. It runs up the left side of the eastern face of snowpatch spire and descends the western face. Jasmin caton and cam shute have climbed a new route on mount gimli in the valhalla range called dark and stormy 5. It is great climbing but it does have more of a cragging feel then the main spires in the bugaboos. Route finding in the alpine, climbing with a heavy pack. The approach scramble takes a left to right trending ramp, directly above. Aug 26, 20 we both really wanted to climb something on the huge west face of north howser tower, and after researching a bunch of options, it seemed that starting up spicy red beans, then doing a runout traverse pitch into all along the watchtower was the option that provided the most wellprotected, straightforward climbing with minimal route finding.

Note the location of the timbered rib to the left north of burgundy creek which drains from the basin below the. Bugaboo spire, crescent spire, and crescent towers are in the background. The deep notch north of the peak is burgundy col, starting point for the north face route. In the late 1930s, snowpatch spire was talked of as the continents number one.

The north summit of snowpatch is in the foreground. Bugaboo spire is one of the tallest peaks in this area and offers two classic routes the ne ridge iv, 5. Html guide warning guide view may take some time to load for areas with large numbers of routes instant pdf generic precreated pdf for north howser tower there are too few routes to preprepare an instant pdf. This year we were able to fund 84 dream projects by individuals looking to push their limits and realize their climbing ambitions. Bugaboo spire is surrounded by other spectacular spires, vertiginous snowpatch spire is a little lower but has fantastic technical routes for rock climbers. The northeast ridge of bugaboo spire with lisa and pavel. Join us to explore one of canadas premier alpine climbing destinations classic routes, aesthetic granite lines, stunning summits, majestic glaciers. From all sides, the spires present a variety of highquality multipitch climbs, from halfday 5.

The direct north summit route, established in the early 80s is probably the first really. Photo taken from the west face of snowpatch photo by luke laeser. For routes on the north face follow the trail from the campground or hut toward the col and north face is to your left once your in the col. We climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of. The vowell glacier and surrounding spires from south howser tower. Destinations include whitehorse, dawson city, inuvik, old crow, yellowknife, vancouver, kelowna, calgary, edmonton and ottawa. Over the past decade, the east face, which rises above applebee campground, has had more attention than usual for attempts at hard free routes. Fritz wiessner, 1938, made the best attempt before bedayn and arnolds success.

Climbers traversing the upper vowell glacier en route to bugaboo snowpatch col far below. A day spent putting up new routes on private land north of fort collins. After a couple misstarts, we did some lostonsnowpatch route, to the left of north tower direct and right of flamingo fling. Countless climbers have watched as the duo worked on one of the most difficult alpine routes in america. The area is also home to two of the famous 50 classic climbs of north america. All routes on the west face are approached via the bugaboo snowpatch col located on the north end of snowpatch spire. The canadianamerican trio of jason kruk, will stanhope, and matt segal have completed the first free ascent of the west face of howser spire s central tower in the bugaboos at 5. Snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. Park your vehicle in the big pullout on the highway about 4,250ft.

Snowpatch spire, south howser tower, north howser tower, and other summits, new routes and first free ascents canada, british columbia, bugaboo provincial park author. From there we climbed over bugaboo snowpatch col to set up our bivy by pigeon spire to position us for climbing the beckeychouinard route on south howser tower the. Around, down and up we ascended the south crescent tower. Ppt the bugaboo provincial park powerpoint presentation. After pulling around and over the gendarme, the south summit is now only a few short pitches away. All routes on the west face are approached via the bugaboosnowpatch col located on the north end of snowpatch spire. Snowpatch spire has worldclass hard alpine free routes september 3rd, 2016 by gripped posted in news, profiles, rock, rockies, routes snowpatch spire stands at 3,063 metres at the centre of the granite bugaboo towers. Pigeon spire, south howser tower, bugaboo spire, and snowpatch spire all conjure up some of the great moments in the history of north american alpine climbing.

The following day we slept in and prepared for a bigger objective. There are fixed anchors in many places along the route, including the top of the tower. Watkins, south facewashington column, regular north facehalf dome, south faceliberty cap. On top we were able to see the entire route to pigeon spire, the granite nunatak we hoped to climb the following morning. July 28, 20 2728m bugaboo provincial park, bc the famous bugaboos is one of the mustvisit places in north america. Anyway, i like pushing my limit so thats it, after scrambling up crescent spire and north crescent tower on the. Rising directly above the pass are six named spires. In the late 1930s, snowpatch spire was talked of as the continents number one climbing problem. A spectacular brown granite tower surrounded by three glaciers, the bugaboo glacier to the south, the vowell glacier to the west, and the crescent glacier to the north. Erin smart laying out gear to dry out after the storm in the bugaboos. Several pieces of antique booty guarantee that the line was not new, but still really good. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. Snowpatch spire, south howser tower, north howser tower, and.

Bugaboo spire kain route and pigeon spire west ridge ascent route. Applebee camp and snowpatch spire in early morning. They deserve a place high on the priority list of anyone with an attraction to wilderness setting and a love of the classic alpine environment. Using the common approach from the east, the massif only becomes visible when one reaches bugaboosnowpatch or pigeonsnowpatch col. Formerly best known as an aidclimbing venue, it is now covered in free routesmostly difficult ones, usually with at least a couple of 5. A crossing had been proposed as early as 2005, however financial uncertainties.